You’ve probably seen the Alabama Hills even if you’ve never set foot in California. Those bulbous, orange-tinted boulders and natural arches have stood in for everything from the Khyber Pass in Gunga Din to the rugged terrain of Afghanistan in the first Iron Man. It’s a place that feels like another planet. Or at least another state.
Most people driving up Highway 395 see the jagged, snow-capped teeth of the Sierra Nevada and assume the Alabama Hills are just the "foothills." They aren't. Not geologically, anyway. While they sit right in the shadow of Mt. Whitney—the tallest peak in the lower 48—these hills are their own weird thing.
The Confederate Ghost in the Name
Let’s address the elephant in the room. The name "Alabama Hills" has absolutely nothing to do with the state of Alabama. It’s actually a remnant of Civil War-era politics. Back in the 1860s, Southern-sympathizing miners in the area were stoked about the exploits of the CSS Alabama, a Confederate warship that was busy wreaking havoc on Union merchant ships.
They named their mining claims after the ship. Eventually, the name just stuck to the whole range.
When the CSS Alabama was finally sunk by the USS Kearsarge in 1864, Union supporters in the valley got their revenge by naming a mountain pass, a peak, and a whole town (Kearsarge) after the victor. It was basically 19th-century trolling.
Today, there’s a lot of conversation about whether the name should stay. The indigenous Paiute and Shoshone people, who have lived in this valley (which they call Payahuunadü) for thousands of years, have a much deeper connection to this soil than any Civil War ship ever did. In 2019, when the area was officially designated as the Alabama Hills National Scenic Area, it was a huge win for conservation, but the historical baggage of the name remains a point of local debate.
Geology: It’s Not What It Looks Like
If you look at the rocks, they look "old." They’re rounded, crumbly, and weathered into these fantastic, melting shapes. The Sierra Nevada right behind them look "young" because they are sharp, jagged, and aggressive.
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Actually? They’re roughly the same age.
Both the Alabamas and the High Sierra are made of biotite monzogranite. They formed about 100 million years ago when magma cooled deep underground. The difference is how they’ve been treated since then.
Up at 14,000 feet, the Sierra gets blasted by "frost wedging." Water gets into cracks, freezes, expands, and snaps the rock into sharp edges. Down in the Owens Valley, the Alabama Hills were buried under soil for eons. Percolating groundwater slowly ate away at the edges of the buried granite blocks, rounding them off like a bar of soap in the shower. When the soil eventually eroded away, these "potato-shaped" boulders were left behind.
Why the Arches Matter
There are over 300 natural arches tucked away here. Mobius Arch is the one you’ve seen on Instagram. It’s a perfect, swirling frame that perfectly captures Mt. Whitney in its opening.
- Mobius Arch: An easy 0.6-mile loop.
- Lathe Arch: Right next to Mobius, but flatter and weirder.
- Eye of Alabama: A small, tucked-away hole that’s great for sunrise.
- Boot Arch: Looks exactly like what you’d think.
Honestly, the best way to see them isn't following a map. Just park at Movie Flat Road and start walking. You’ll find "baby arches" that haven't even been named yet.
The Hollywood Legacy
Since 1920, over 400 movies have been filmed here. Lone Pine basically became the backlot for the entire Western genre. The Lone Ranger, Gene Autry, and John Wayne all rode through these rocks.
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If you drive down Movie Road, you’re literally driving through cinema history.
In the 1990 classic Tremors, the town of Perfection was built right here in the hills. They had to be careful not to damage the rocks while pretending giant worms were eating everyone. More recently, the opening scenes of Iron Man (2008) used the Alabama Hills to simulate the Kunar Province of Afghanistan. The contrast between the orange rocks and the snowy Sierras is so dramatic it doesn't even look real on screen.
Camping Changes: The New Rules for 2026
This is where people usually get into trouble. You used to be able to just pull your van over anywhere and call it a night. Those days are over.
Because the area exploded in popularity, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) had to step in to save the plants. The desert crust—that blackish, crunchy dirt—is actually alive. It’s called biological soil crust, and if you step on it, it can take 50 years to grow back.
Where You Can Actually Sleep
- Designated Sites Only: You can only camp in spots marked with a brown post and a tent symbol. There are about 50 of these.
- The "West Side" Ban: You cannot camp on the west side of Movie Road anymore. That’s strictly for day use to keep the views of the mountains clear of RVs.
- Permits: You need a Free Alabama Hills Camping Permit. You can get these online or at the Eastern Sierra Interagency Visitor Center just south of Lone Pine.
- Wag Bags: This is the unglamorous part. You have to pack out your human waste. There are no toilets in the hills, and the desert doesn't break down... well, you know. Don't be that person. Pack it out.
If the designated spots are full (and they usually are by Thursday afternoon), head to Tuttle Creek Campground. It’s $10, has actual toilets, and the views are just as good.
How to Not Have a Bad Time
The high desert is a land of extremes. I’ve been there in May when it was 85°F at noon and 30°F by midnight.
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Water is your best friend. Bring way more than you think. There is zero potable water in the National Scenic Area. If you’re hiking the Mobius Arch trail at midday in July, you’re going to have a bad time.
Watch for "Mojave Greens." The Mojave Green rattlesnake lives here. They aren't looking for a fight, but they blend in perfectly with the scrub. Always look where you’re putting your hands if you’re scrambling on the boulders.
The Light Show. If you aren't in the hills for "Alpenglow," you’re missing the whole point. About 20 minutes before sunrise, the sun hits the peaks of the Sierras and turns them a neon pink/orange. It only lasts a few minutes. It’s quiet. It’s spiritual. It’s why people keep coming back.
Beyond the Boulders: Lone Pine
Don't just skip the town. Lone Pine is a classic Sierra "basecamp" town.
Go to the Museum of Western Film History. It’s surprisingly high-quality. They have the actual 1937 Plymouth from High Sierra and a ton of memorabilia from Django Unchained.
Eat at the Alabama Hills Cafe. Their sourdough pancakes are legendary. Expect a wait on weekends, but it’s worth it.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit:
- Download Offline Maps: Cell service is non-existent once you get deep into the rocks. Use Gaia GPS or AllTrails offline.
- Check Wind Forecasts: The Owens Valley is a wind tunnel. If the forecast says 20mph, it’ll feel like 40mph in the hills. Don't try to camp in a rooftop tent during a wind event.
- Get the Permit Early: Even though it's free, having the digital copy on your phone saves you a headache if a ranger knocks on your van at 8 AM.
- Visit Manzanar: Just 15 minutes north is the Manzanar National Historic Site. It’s a sobering look at the Japanese American internment during WWII. It’s a necessary contrast to the "fun" of the hills.
The Alabama Hills are a fragile place. It’s a miracle they’re still open to the public for free. Treat the land with some respect, stay on the established trails, and for the love of everything, don't carve your name into the rocks.