You've probably seen that tiny, faint text etched onto the underside of your earbud. If it says AirPods Pro model number A2084, you’re holding a piece of hardware that basically changed how we think about mobile audio back in 2019. It’s the left earbud. Just the left one. Most people don’t realize that Apple assigns individual model numbers to the left bud, the right bud, and the charging case separately. It’s confusing. Honestly, it’s a bit of a headache when you're trying to buy a replacement on eBay or figure out if your noise canceling is actually dying or if you just need a firmware update.
Let's get the technical IDs out of the way. If your left side is an A2084, your right side should be an A2085. The MagSafe or Lightning charging case that goes with them will usually be A2190. Together, they make up the 1st Generation AirPods Pro.
These things were a massive leap. Before these, we had the plastic "hard" tips of the original AirPods that either fit your ear or they didn't. There was no middle ground. Then A2084 showed up with those silicone tips and active noise cancellation (ANC). It felt like magic. But now, years later, these units are hitting a wall. Battery degradation is real. The "crackle" issue is real. If you’re still rocking this specific model, you’re likely at a crossroads: do you fix them, or is it time to toss them in the recycling bin?
Why the A2084 Model Number Actually Matters
Identifying your model number isn't just for nerds. It’s about money. If you go to a repair shop or try to use Apple’s service programs, they will check that A2084 code immediately.
Why? Because the 1st Gen Pros had a very specific manufacturing flaw. Units manufactured before October 2020 often developed these nasty clicking or static sounds. I’ve heard it myself—it sounds like a tiny pebble rattling inside your ear every time you take a step or cough. Apple eventually acknowledged this. They launched a worldwide service program. But here's the kicker: they only cover it for three years after the first retail sale of the unit. If you bought your A2084 buds in 2019 or early 2020, you’re likely out of luck for a free fix now.
Checking the number is easy but requires decent eyesight or a smartphone camera. You can find it on the underside of the earbud itself. Or, if they are paired to your iPhone, just go into Settings, tap Bluetooth, hit the "i" next to your AirPods, and scroll down. Tapping the model number in that menu will actually toggle between the "A" numbers for the left and right buds.
The Sound Signature and That "Vent" System
The A2084 wasn't just about blocking noise. It was about pressure. If you’ve ever used cheap in-ear monitors, you know that "plugged up" feeling. It sucks. It feels like you’re underwater. Apple solved this with a sophisticated vent system to equalize pressure. That’s why you can wear them for three hours without feeling like your head is in a vise.
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Inside, there's the H1 chip. It’s the brain. It handles the "Hey Siri" requests and the near-instant switching between your Mac and your iPhone. While the newer H2 chip in the 2nd Gen Pros is "better" on paper, the H1 in the A2084 still holds its own for basic music streaming and calls.
We need to talk about Transparency Mode. Honestly, even in 2026, the transparency mode on the original AirPods Pro is better than most $300 headphones coming out today. It doesn't sound processed. It sounds like you aren't wearing headphones at all. That’s the real legacy of this model.
Battery Life: The Elephant in the Room
Lithium-ion batteries are a ticking time bomb. They just are. If you’ve had your A2084 buds since launch, your "4.5 hours of listening time" is probably more like 45 minutes now.
You can't really replace the battery. Well, you can, but it involves a heat gun, surgery-level precision, and a high probability of destroying the plastic housing. iFixit famously gave these a 0 out of 10 for repairability. They are "disposable" tech, which is a tough pill to swallow for a $249 product.
If your battery is toast, you have a few options:
- Apple Support: They’ll charge you about $49 per earbud to "service" the battery. Basically, they just swap it for a new one.
- PodSwap: There are third-party companies that take your old ones and send you refurbished ones with fresh batteries. It's cheaper and better for the planet.
- The Drawer: They end up in the "junk drawer" until the battery swells and ruins them. Don't do this. Recycle them.
Real-World Problems: The Static and the Fit
Let’s get into the weeds of the "Pro" experience. The A2084 uses a proprietary tip attachment. You can't just slap any old memory foam tips on there. You need the ones with the little plastic click-ring. If your ANC feels like it's getting weaker, it’s probably not the software. It’s the ear tip. Over time, the silicone softens or gets coated in... well, earwax. This ruins the seal.
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And the static? If your A2084 starts buzzing, try cleaning the external mesh. There’s a black mesh grille on the outside. If that gets clogged with oils from your skin, the outward-facing microphone can’t "hear" the environment correctly to cancel it out. It creates a feedback loop. A quick scrub with a dry toothbrush sometimes fixes a "broken" earbud in ten seconds.
Comparing A2084 to the Newer 2nd Gen
Is it worth upgrading? The 2nd Gen (A2698/A2699) looks almost identical. You might think, "Why bother?"
The noise cancellation on the newer ones is technically twice as strong. In a noisy coffee shop, the A2084 might let in the high-pitched hiss of an espresso machine. The 2nd Gen kills it. Also, the newer case has a speaker. If you lose your A2084 case in the couch cushions, you're playing a game of hot-and-cold with your phone. With the newer one, it chirps at you.
But, if your A2084 still holds a charge and doesn't crackle, there is almost no reason to upgrade for casual podcast listening. The audio quality for Spotify or Apple Music is remarkably similar because of the limitations of the AAC codec over Bluetooth. You aren't getting "Lossless" audio on either of them anyway.
How to Spot a Fake A2084
The market is flooded with clones. Some are so good they actually trigger the "pairing" animation on your iPhone.
Look at the text on the earbud. On a genuine A2084, the printing is light gray, perfectly centered, and crisp. Fakes often use dark black ink that looks "stamped" on. Also, check the Ear Tip Fit Test in your settings. Most fakes will "pass" the test even if the buds aren't in your ears because they don't actually have the internal pressure sensors.
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Real A2084s also have a serial number that matches the one in your iPhone's "About" menu. If the numbers don't match, you've been scammed.
Maintenance Checklist for Your A2084
If you want these things to last another two years, you have to be proactive.
- Clean the contacts: Use a Q-tip with a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol on the bottom of the stem. If the A2084 won't charge, it's usually just skin oil on the metal rings.
- Firmware updates: You can't force them. It’s annoying. Just leave them in the case, plugged into power, next to your iPhone. They’ll update overnight.
- Resetting: If they act glitchy, hold the button on the back of the case for 15 seconds until the light flashes amber then white. This solves 90% of pairing issues.
Is the A2084 Still "Pro" Today?
It's a weird spot. In the tech world, five-year-old hardware is usually ancient. But the A2084 was so over-engineered at launch that it still feels modern. It has Spatial Audio with head tracking. It has an IPX4 water resistance rating. It still works perfectly with the latest iOS versions.
The real limit is the battery. We are reaching the point where the original fleet of A2084 AirPods Pro is hitting the end of its chemical life. If yours are still going strong, you're in the lucky minority.
Actionable Next Steps
If you are currently using or looking to buy an AirPods Pro model number A2084, follow these steps to ensure you aren't wasting your money:
- Run the Serial Number: Go to checkcoverage.apple.com and type in your serial number. This confirms authenticity and tells you if you have any remaining support.
- Test for Crackling: Put them in "Noise Cancellation" or "Transparency" mode and shake your head. If you hear a rattling or static, they are failing. If you are within three years of purchase, contact Apple immediately.
- Deep Clean the Mesh: Use a piece of Blu-Tack or a soft-bristled brush to clear the black mesh grilles. This often restores lost bass and improves ANC performance instantly.
- Evaluate Battery Health: Use them until they die. If you get less than 2.5 hours, they are technically "end of life." Consider a battery swap service like PodSwap rather than buying a whole new pair if you want to save $150.
- Check Your Tips: If the seal feels loose, don't buy new AirPods. Just buy the $7 replacement tips. It makes them feel like a brand-new product.
The A2084 remains a legendary piece of tech, but it requires a bit of manual care to stay functional in a world that has moved on to USB-C and H2 chips. Keep the contacts clean, watch for the "rattle" defect, and you'll likely get another year or two out of them before they finally give up the ghost.