You've seen the photos of Easter Island. Usually, it’s a lone, weathered head staring blankly at a grassy slope. But if you actually make the trek to Anakena Beach, things change. You find Ahu Nau Nau. It doesn’t look like the rest of the island. While much of Rapa Nui feels like a graveyard of giants, Ahu Nau Nau feels... preserved.
It’s the sand.
For centuries, this specific ceremonial platform was buried under drifting dunes. That white coral sand acted like a time capsule. When Sergio Rapu and his team started excavating here in 1978, they didn't just find more rocks. They found details that changed everything we thought we knew about the Rapa Nui people.
Honestly, if you only visit the main quarry at Rano Raraku, you’re missing the "finished product." Ahu Nau Nau is where the artistry actually lives.
What makes Ahu Nau Nau different?
Most people think all Moai look the same. They don't. The seven statues at Ahu Nau Nau are remarkably delicate. Because they were buried in sand rather than left out in the wind and salt spray, you can still see the carvings on their backs. We're talking about intricate "maro" designs—bas-reliefs that represent loincloths and symbols of rank.
It’s personal.
These aren't just icons; they are ancestors. The craftsmanship suggests a society that wasn't just obsessed with scale, but with status and aesthetics. You'll notice four of the statues still wear their pukao. These are the massive "topknots" or hats carved from red scoria. They look precarious. They look like they should have fallen off centuries ago. But there they sit, deep red against the grey tuff of the bodies, creating a color contrast you won't find at many other sites on the island.
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The setting helps too. Most of the island is rugged, volcanic, and honestly a bit harsh. Ahu Nau Nau sits right behind a grove of palm trees. The beach is right there. It’s the only place on the island where the "tropical paradise" vibe actually meets the megalithic mystery.
The 1978 Discovery that Changed History
Before 1978, archeologists were pretty sure the Moai had "blind" eyes. They figured the deep sockets were just a stylistic choice. Then, during the restoration of Ahu Nau Nau, a researcher found a fragment of white coral with a pupil made of red scoria.
Everything shifted.
Suddenly, we realized these statues weren't meant to be "dead" stone. When the coral eyes were inserted, the Moai "awakened." They became the living faces of the ancestors, casting mana (spiritual power) over the village. It’s a chilling thought when you stand there today. You aren't just looking at a monument; you’re being watched by it.
Sergio Rapu, who is a local Rapa Nui archaeologist and former governor, was instrumental in this. His work at Ahu Nau Nau proved that the islanders had a much more sophisticated grasp of mixed-media art than Westerners had given them credit for. They weren't just stone-movers. They were jewelers on a gargantuan scale.
The Mystery of the Backside Carvings
If you get a chance to walk around (though you have to stay behind the perimeter lines), look for the symbols. Most people just stare at the faces. Don't do that. Look at the dorsal side.
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- You'll see the Maro—that belt-like carving.
- There are "M" shapes that represent the human spine.
- Some carvings look like rings or birds.
These details survived because of the sand. At other sites like Ahu Tongariki, the wind has sanded the stone flat. It’s smooth and featureless. But at Nau Nau, it’s like reading a tattoo on a grandfather’s arm. It tells you who they were.
The Logistics: Getting to Anakena
You can't just wander onto Easter Island and expect to see this for free. You need your National Park pass. Keep it in your pocket; they check it at the entrance to the Anakena area.
It’s about a 20-minute drive from Hanga Roa. The road is paved, but it’s narrow. Watch out for horses. Seriously. The island has more horses than people, and they own the road. If a herd is crossing, you wait.
When you get to the parking lot, you’ll smell the po'e (a local pumpkin or banana cake) and grilled tuna from the small kiosks. Eat before you walk to the Ahu. It’s tempting to rush to the statues, but take a second to look at the hills behind you. That’s where the statues came from. They were dragged miles across the island, likely using a "walking" motion with ropes, though the locals will tell you they moved with spiritual power. Both versions feel equally plausible when you’re standing in front of a 30-ton block of stone.
Common Misconceptions about Ahu Nau Nau
People call them "heads."
They aren't heads. They are full bodies buried up to their chests or standing on platforms. At Ahu Nau Nau, you see the full torso.
Another big mistake? Thinking they face the sea.
Almost every Moai on the island faces inland. They face the village. The only exception is at Ahu Akivi, but here at Nau Nau, they are looking directly at where the ancient houses (called hare paenga) used to be. They were guardians, not lookouts. They didn't care about the ocean; they cared about the people.
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Why the "Hats" are Red
The pukao are made from a different stone than the statues. The statues are "lapilli tuff" from the Rano Raraku quarry. The hats are "red scoria" from a completely different quarry called Puna Pau.
Why go through the trouble?
Red is a sacred color in Polynesian culture. It represents royalty and divinity. Putting a red topknot on a Moai was like putting a crown on a king. It wasn't an afterthought. It was the point.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
If you’re planning to visit Ahu Nau Nau, don't just go at noon. The sun is brutal, and the light is "flat," which makes for terrible photos.
- Go in the morning: The sun rises behind the statues if you’re looking from the beach, creating a silhouette.
- Late afternoon is better for detail: The "golden hour" light hits the faces directly, bringing out the texture of the stone and the red of the pukao.
- Respect the "Tapu": The stone platforms are sacred. Never, ever step on the Ahu. There are sensors and guards, but more importantly, it’s deeply disrespectful to the Rapa Nui people.
- Look for the "hidden" Moai: Nearby, there’s another Ahu called Ahu Ature Huki. It only has one statue. It was the first one ever put back up in modern times (Thor Heyerdahl did it in the 50s). It’s less "pretty" than Nau Nau, but it’s the reason we know how to stand them up today.
Why it matters now
Ahu Nau Nau is a reminder of resilience. The island went through a total ecological collapse, internal wars, and then the horrors of the 19th-century slave raids. For a while, the culture was almost gone.
Seeing these seven figures standing tall today isn't just a tourist attraction. It’s a victory. When the Rapa Nui people worked with archaeologists to put these back on their pedestals, they were piecing their own history back together.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Secure your Rapa Nui National Park ticket online before you arrive on the island; you cannot buy them at the sites.
- Hire a local Rapa Nui guide. While you can walk around on your own, the stories about which families belong to which Moai add a layer of depth you won't get from a guidebook.
- Pack a snorkel. After you’ve spent an hour or two at the Ahu, the water at Anakena is some of the clearest in the world. There’s even a submerged Moai in the bay (it's a modern one placed there for a movie, but it's still cool to find).
- Check the weather for wind. If the wind is coming from the North, the beach can get messy. South-Westerly winds are your friend for a perfect day at Nau Nau.
The real magic of Ahu Nau Nau isn't in the mystery of how they moved the stones. It's in the fact that, despite everything, they are still standing there, watching over the sand, waiting for the sun to hit those red hats just right.