If you were anywhere near a Tumblr dashboard or a British high street in 2012, you saw them. The triple-stacked soles. The heart-shaped satchels. The velvet creepers that looked like they belonged in a 1990s Camden basement. Agyness Deyn Doc Martens weren't just a shoes-meet-model moment; they were basically a cultural reset for a brand that was, at the time, struggling to find its feet with a new generation.
Aggy was the "It Girl" of the era. Shaved head, peroxide blonde, and a style that felt like she’d just raided a charity shop and somehow made it look like high fashion. When she teamed up with Dr. Martens for a series of capsule collections between 2012 and 2014, it wasn't some corporate cash grab. It felt real.
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Honestly, the impact she had on the brand's survival is wild.
How Aggy Actually "Saved" the Brand
Before the 2012 collab, Dr. Martens was in a bit of a weird spot. They had the history, sure. Skinheads, punks, and goths had worn them for decades. But the "cool kids" of the early 2010s were starting to drift.
Then came Aggy.
She'd been wearing Docs since she was 13—she famously bought her first pair to rebel against her parents—so when she became the face of the "First and Forever" campaign, it felt authentic. Sales on sites like ASOS reportedly jumped over 230% around that time. People weren't just buying boots; they were buying the Agyness Deyn version of cool. It was a mix of 90s grunge and 60s Mod, and everyone wanted in.
The Four Seasons: A Breakdown of the Designs
Most people remember the "Aggy Boot"—that massive, over-the-knee lace-up beast—but there were actually four distinct drops. Each one had a totally different vibe because Aggy was basically playing dress-up with her own history.
- Fall/Winter 2012: This was the grunge phase. Think Johnny Depp and Winona Ryder in the 90s. We got daisy prints, acid green tea dresses, and those iconic heart-shaped satchels that still sell for a fortune on Depop.
- Spring/Summer 2013: She went to Tokyo for this one. Harajuku influence everywhere. The standout? An eyeball print that was actually a scan of Aggy’s own eye. She put it on dresses, bags, and shoes. Kinda creepy, totally cool.
- Fall/Winter 2013: The Mod collection. This was a love letter to her British roots—The Smiths, The Who, and 1960s Brighton. She even put a teapot print on the lining of the parkas.
- Spring/Summer 2014: The finale. Surf-punk Cali vibes. She’d moved to LA by then, so the collection had palm tree patches and mesh jerseys, but kept the heavy oxblood leather that defined the brand.
Why You Can't Find Them Anymore (and the "Faulty" Zip Myth)
Try finding a pair of the Agyness Deyn Doc Martens strap creepers today. It’s nearly impossible. When they do pop up on resale sites, they’re usually listed as "Grail" items for $300 or more.
There’s a bit of a legend in the DM community that the "Aggy Strap" shoes were discontinued because of a design flaw. If you look at old listings, you’ll see people complaining that the zippers broke easily. Whether that’s why they never did a re-release or if it was just meant to be a limited run is up for debate, but it’s added to the "unicorn" status of the collection.
The Reality of the Resale Market
If you’re hunting for these in 2026, you’ve gotta be careful.
The patent leather versions, especially the cherry red ones, tend to crack if they haven't been conditioned. Because these boots are now over a decade old, the "deadstock" pairs are rare. You're mostly looking at well-loved boots that have seen a few festivals.
The most sought-after pieces are:
- The Aggy Boot: The 20-eye tall boot with the platform.
- The Heart Satchel: In black or cherry red leather.
- The Velvet Creepers: Especially in the burgundy colorway.
Actionable Tips for Collectors
If you’re desperate to own a piece of this fashion history, don't just search for "Doc Martens." You have to be specific.
- Search Terms: Use "Aggy DM," "Dr. Martens Agyness Deyn," or "Aggy strap boot" on eBay and Vinted.
- Check the Zips: If you find the strap boots, ask the seller for a video of the zipper working. It’s the #1 fail point on that specific model.
- Size Up (Maybe): Some of the 2012/2013 collaborations ran slightly narrow compared to the standard 1460s.
- Look for the Lining: Real Aggy Docs often have unique internal details, like the teapot print or the "Agyness Deyn for Dr. Martens" tag on the inside.
Agyness Deyn basically handed a heritage brand a roadmap to being "cool" again by looking backward at the subcultures she loved. She wasn't just a face; she was a designer who actually understood the weight of the boots she was wearing. Whether you're a collector or just nostalgic for the 2012 Tumblr aesthetic, there’s no denying that this collab changed the trajectory of Dr. Martens forever.
Next Step: Check your local high-end consignment shops or specialized "archive" sellers on Instagram; they often source these specific collaborations for collectors who value the 2010-2015 era of British "It Girl" fashion.