Most people driving toward the St. Croix River Valley have their hearts set on Stillwater. They want the fudge, the antique shops, and the crowded riverfront walks. But if you hang a right and head slightly south, you hit Afton State Park. It’s different. Honestly, it’s a bit of a workout compared to the manicured paths you’ll find in the city. You aren’t going there for a casual stroll in flip-flops. You’re going there because you want to feel the burn in your quads as you climb those massive glacial moraines and then see the river valley open up beneath you like a painting.
It’s about 30 miles from the Twin Cities. That's close enough for a spontaneous Tuesday hike but far enough that the air actually smells like prairie grass and pine rather than exhaust.
The park covers roughly 1,700 acres. It’s a mix of rugged rolling hills, blufflands, and oak savanna that somehow survived the massive suburban sprawl of Washington County. When you first pull in, you might think it’s just another park. It isn't. The geography here is intentionally challenging. Because the park was designed to preserve the rugged character of the St. Croix, the "easy" trails are few and far between. You’re basically signing up for a stair-stepper session designed by Mother Nature herself.
The Brutal Reality of the Afton State Park Hiking Trails
If you look at a map of Afton State Park, you'll see a spiderweb of lines. Some are for bikes, some for horses, but most are for feet. The North River Trail is the one everyone talks about. It hugs the shoreline. It's relatively flat. It's also where you'll find every family with a stroller on a Saturday afternoon. If you want peace, you have to go up.
The backpacker trails are where the park reveals its true self. You have to haul your gear. There is no "drive-up" camping here in the traditional sense. You park your car in a lot and you walk. Sometimes you walk a mile; sometimes you walk more. This keeps the loud, generator-running RV crowd away. It’s quiet.
- Prairie Loop: This is about 3.5 miles of sun. Do not forget water. You're walking through restored oak savanna and tallgrass prairie. In mid-summer, the big bluestem and Indian grass get tall enough to hide a person.
- Trout Brook Loop: This one feels more like the Northwoods. It’s cooler, shaded, and follows a creek that actually has some decent fly-fishing if you know where the deep pockets are.
- The Hidden Beach: It's not really hidden, but since you have to hike down a massive hill to get to the St. Croix riverbank, fewer people bother. The sand is gritty, the water is clear, and the current is stronger than it looks.
People often complain about the hills. "It’s too steep," they say. Well, yeah. That’s the point. The bluff sits nearly 300 feet above the river level. You're going to feel it in your knees. But when you hit the overlooks near the backpacker sites, especially in early October? The maples turn this violent shade of scarlet that makes the whole hike worth it.
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Why the Camping Here Disturbs People (In a Good Way)
Most Minnesota State Parks follow a template. You get a paved pad, a fire ring, and a neighbor twenty feet away playing country music. Afton State Park rejects that. They have 28 backpacker sites.
You carry your tent. You carry your sleeping bag. You carry your food.
Because of this barrier to entry, the campsites feel incredibly private. You’re perched on top of a ridge or tucked into a fold of the hills. At night, you don't hear cars. You hear the wind moving through the oaks and the occasional freighter or barge hum way down on the St. Croix. It’s one of the few places near the metro where the stars actually look bright.
They also have yurts. Two of them. If you’ve never stayed in a yurt, it’s basically a heavy-duty circular tent with a wood stove. They’re booked out months in advance, usually by people who want the "winter camping" experience without actually sleeping in a snowbank. In February, when the temperature drops to -10°F, those wood stoves are the only thing standing between you and a very miserable night.
The Seasonal Shift: From Hiking to Groomed Ski Trails
Winter changes the math at Afton. The park becomes a hub for cross-country skiing. They groom about 12 miles of trails, and they aren't for beginners. The same hills that make hiking hard make skiing terrifyingly fast. If you aren't comfortable with a "snowplow" stop, stay off the black-diamond rated loops.
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The park staff is pretty meticulous about grooming. They use a PistenBully, and they usually update the trail conditions on the DNR website by mid-morning. If we get a fresh six inches of powder, Afton is arguably the best skiing in the lower half of the state.
Then there’s the snowshoeing. You can snowshoe anywhere in the park except on the groomed ski trails. Pro tip: head toward the ravine overlooks. The frozen seeps along the rock faces create these miniature ice curtains that look like something out of a fairy tale.
A Quick Note on the Water
The St. Croix River is a National Wild and Scenic River. That's a big deal. It means there are strict rules about development. When you look across the river from the Afton beach, you isn't looking at condos or giant mansions. You’re looking at trees.
The water quality here is generally higher than the Mississippi, but it’s still a river. It’s got that tea-colored tint from the tannins up north. In the heat of August, watch the DNR reports for algae blooms. It doesn't happen often here because of the flow, but it's worth checking before you let your dog jump in.
Common Misconceptions About Afton State Park
A lot of people confuse Afton State Park with Afton Alps. They are neighbors, but they aren't the same thing. One is a ski resort with chairlifts and artificial snow; the other is a state-managed wilderness area. Don't show up at the State Park expecting a lift to the top of the hill.
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Another mistake? Thinking you can "do" the park in an hour. You can't. Even the shortest meaningful loop will take you ninety minutes if you're stopping to look at the birds. And you should look at the birds. This is a major flyway. Bald eagles are everywhere. I once saw a peregrine falcon dive-bombing a crow near the visitor center, and it was the most metal thing I’ve ever seen in suburban Minnesota.
Also, the "beach" isn't a Caribbean resort. It's a river landing. There are no lifeguards. There are no umbrellas for rent. It’s raw. If that bothers you, the pool at a Holiday Inn might be a better fit. But if you want to feel the St. Croix mud between your toes while watching a paddleboat go by, it’s perfect.
Practical Logistics for Your Visit
You need a vehicle permit. It’s 7 dollars for a day or 35 dollars for the year. Just buy the year pass. If you visit five times, it’s paid for itself, and it gets you into every other park in the state.
The visitor center is decent. They have some displays about the geology—mostly focusing on how the glaciers carved the valley—and they sell firewood. Do not bring your own firewood. This is how emerald ash borer and other pests spread. Buy it at the park. It’s a few bucks, and it keeps the trees alive.
- Parking: The main lot fills up by 11:00 AM on beautiful Saturdays. Get there at 8:00 AM.
- Ticks: This is big. Afton is tick central in the spring. The tall grass in the prairie sections is basically a highway for deer ticks. Use DEET. Wear long socks. Do a check when you get back to the car.
- Water: There are pumps, but during the winter, most are turned off. Bring your own jugs if you’re visiting between November and April.
Actionable Steps for Your First Trip
- Check the Terrain Map: Don't just follow the signs. Look at the contour lines. If the lines are close together, you’re in for a climb. Plan your route according to your fitness level.
- Download Avenza Maps: The DNR has geo-referenced maps you can use on your phone. Even if you lose cell service (which happens in the deep ravines), the GPS will show you exactly where you are on the trail.
- Pack a Picnic: There are no food trucks. There are no vending machines with anything substantial. The town of Afton is a few miles away and has great ice cream, but once you're in the park, you're on your own.
- Visit on a Weekday: If you can swing a Tuesday morning, you’ll have the overlooks to yourself. The difference in "vibe" between a Tuesday and a Saturday is night and day.
- Try the Backpacker Sites: Even if you aren't an "outdoorsy" person, try a one-night stay at a site like BP3 or BP4. It’s a low-stakes way to try wilderness camping while still being within a 15-minute drive of a Target.
Afton State Park doesn't try to be everything to everyone. It’s rugged, it’s hilly, and it demands some sweat. But that’s exactly why it remains one of the best escapes in the Midwest. It filters out the people who just want a photo-op and rewards the ones who are willing to walk for the view.
Go for the hills. Stay for the silence. Just remember to check for ticks.