You’ve probably seen it a million times on Pinterest or taped to the wall of a local beauty supply shop. The legendary afro hair types chart. It usually features those neat little illustrations ranging from loose waves to tight, springy coils. It’s the holy grail for anyone trying to figure out why their hair is acting up or which $20 tub of curling cream to buy next. But honestly? The chart is kinda flawed. It's helpful, sure, but it’s definitely not the whole story when it comes to Type 4 hair.
Understanding your hair isn't just about labeling it a "4C" and calling it a day. It’s about the science of the strand.
Where the afro hair types chart actually came from
We have Andre Walker to thank for this, mostly. He was Oprah Winfrey’s longtime stylist, and back in the 90s, he created the Hair Typing System to help market his line of products. It was revolutionary at the time because it finally gave a vocabulary to textures that had been ignored by mainstream beauty standards for decades.
The system breaks down into four main categories. Type 1 is straight. Type 2 is wavy. Type 3 is curly. Type 4 is coily. If you’re looking at an afro hair types chart, you’re primarily focusing on that Type 4 category, which is then sub-divided into A, B, and C.
Walker’s original system didn't even include 4C. That was added later by the natural hair community—specifically people on forums like NaturallyCurly and Long Hair Care Forum—who realized that many Black people had textures that didn't fit the "defined coil" description of 4B. They needed a term for hair that was densely packed, had high shrinkage, and didn't necessarily have a visible curl pattern without products.
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The Type 4 breakdown: It’s more than just zig-zags
When you look at a modern afro hair types chart, here is how the 4s are usually laid out.
4A is the coily-curly mix. These are small, tight coils about the diameter of a crochet needle. This hair type usually has a very visible "S" pattern even when it's dry and hasn't been touched by gel. It tends to retain moisture a bit better than its cousins because the cuticle isn't as jaggedly open at every bend.
4B is the "Z" pattern. Instead of curling, the hair bends at sharp angles like the letter Z. It’s fluffy. It’s voluminous. It also shrinks like crazy—sometimes up to 70% of its actual length. If you pull a strand of 4B hair, it might look twice as long as it does when it's just sitting there.
4C is the tightest of the tight. It’s similar to 4B but the strands are so densely packed that you might not see a discernible pattern at all. It’s fragile. It’s strong. It’s prone to extreme dryness because the scalp’s natural oils (sebum) have a really hard time traveling down those tiny, intricate tight turns.
Why the chart is lying to you (sorta)
Here is the truth: almost nobody has just one hair type.
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You might have 4C at the crown of your head where the sun hits it and it gets a bit more "weathered," but 4A at the nape of your neck where it's protected and stays moist. If you try to treat your whole head based on one spot on the afro hair types chart, you’re going to end up with half your hair looking great and the other half looking like a tumbleweed.
Also, the chart ignores the most important factor: Porosity. Porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and keep moisture. If you have "Low Porosity" hair, your hair cuticles are flat and tight like shingles on a roof. Water literally bounces off. You can stand in the shower for five minutes and your hair will still feel dry in the middle. If you have "High Porosity" hair, your cuticles are wide open. Water goes in fast, but it evaporates just as quickly.
If you have 4C hair with low porosity, you need heat to open those cuticles. If you have 4C hair with high porosity, you need heavy butters and oils to "seal" the door shut. The chart doesn't tell you that. It just tells you what the curl looks like.
Real-world impact and the "Texturism" conversation
We have to talk about the elephant in the room. Historically, the afro hair types chart has been used as a tool for texturism. In the early days of the natural hair movement on YouTube (think 2008-2012), the creators who got the most views often had 3C or 4A hair. It was "easier" to manage by Eurocentric standards because it was easier to define.
4C hair was often relegated to the "struggle" category.
This led to a lot of frustration. People would buy a product because a 4A influencer used it, only to find it did absolutely nothing for their 4C coils. The chart can be a trap if you use it to compare yourself to others rather than using it as a baseline for your own chemistry.
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Density and Width: The missing variables
There are two other things that the afro hair types chart misses completely:
- Density: This is how many hairs are on your head. You can have fine 4C hair (thin strands, but many of them) or coarse 4C hair (thick, rope-like strands).
- Width: This is the thickness of the individual strand.
If you have fine hair, heavy shea butter will weigh it down and make it look greasy. If you have coarse hair, that same shea butter is a godsend. You see the problem? Two people can both be "Type 4" on the chart but require completely opposite hair care routines.
How to actually use the chart for your routine
Don't throw the chart away. Just use it as one piece of the puzzle.
Start by identifying your primary pattern. Are you mostly 4B? Cool. Now, do the "Float Test" for porosity. Take a clean strand of shed hair and drop it in a glass of water. If it floats after five minutes, you’re low porosity. If it sinks, you’re high.
- For 4A textures: Focus on "Wash and Gos." Your pattern is defined enough that a good botanical gel (like Kinky Curly Curling Custard or Uncle Funky’s Daughter) will pop those coils without much effort.
- For 4B textures: Twist-outs and braid-outs are your best friend. Since your hair bends in angles, "setting" it while wet helps create a more uniform, elongated look.
- For 4C textures: Protective styling and "LCO" (Liquid, Cream, Oil) or "LOC" (Liquid, Oil, Cream) methods are vital. Your hair is the most prone to breakage because every bend in the hair is a potential breaking point. Low manipulation is the name of the game.
Actionable steps for mastering your texture
Stop looking for the "perfect" product and start looking for the perfect technique.
Step 1: The Clarifying Reset
Before you try to type your hair, you need to get rid of the gunk. Use a sulfate-free clarifying shampoo to strip away silicones and old oils. You can't see your real pattern if it's buried under three weeks of edge control.
Step 2: The Sopping Wet Observation
Check your hair when it is soaking wet and conditioned. This is its truest state. Look at the back, the sides, and the crown. Note the differences. Maybe you're a "4-Mix." That’s normal.
Step 3: Porosity Testing
Forget the chart for a second and focus on how your hair reacts to water. If it takes forever to get wet, you need to start using warm water and steam during your deep conditioning sessions.
Step 4: Ingredient Awareness
Read the labels. If you have Type 4 hair, you generally want to avoid drying alcohols (like Isopropyl alcohol) and heavy silicones that require harsh sulfates to remove. Look for humectants like glycerin or aloe vera, but be careful with them in super dry climates—they can actually pull moisture out of your hair if the air is too dry.
Step 5: Document the Data
Take photos. Note what happens when you use a heavy butter vs. a light milk. The afro hair types chart is a map, but you're the one driving the car. You have to learn the specific "potholes" and "scenic routes" of your own head.
Focus on health over length. A healthy 4C "fro" that is hydrated and bouncy is infinitely better than 4A hair that is heat-damaged and scraggly. The chart helps you find your tribe, but your routine is what keeps your hair on your head.
Start by simplifying. Pick one sulfate-free shampoo, one deep conditioner, and one sealer. Use them for a month. See how your hair responds before adding twenty more steps to the process.