You think you know Achill. You’ve seen the drone shots of Keem Bay on Instagram, that perfect turquoise crescent tucked into the cliffs that looks more like the Algarve than the edge of the North Atlantic. Maybe you watched The Banshees of Inisherin and felt that sudden, sharp tug to walk along those desolate, beautiful limestone paths. But here’s the thing about Achill Island County Mayo: it is much bigger, weirder, and more complicated than a three-minute movie trailer suggests.
It's massive. Seriously. At 57 square miles, it’s the largest island off the Irish coast, but it doesn't always feel like an island because of the Michael Davitt Bridge connecting it to the mainland. You just drive across. No ferry, no waiting, just a sudden shift in the air and the way the light hits the bog.
The Keem Bay Myth and What’s Actually There
Keem Bay is the poster child. It’s consistently ranked as one of the best beaches in the world by the likes of Big 7 Travel and Lonely Planet. It’s stunning. But if you go there in the height of July, you’re going to be fighting for a parking spot with fifty other people who had the exact same idea.
The real magic of Keem isn't just the water. It’s the drive. The road clings to the side of Croaghaun mountain, and if you’re the driver, you won’t see the view because you’ll be too busy praying you don't clip a wing mirror on a sheep. Those sheep? They own the place. They have zero respect for your rental car’s insurance policy.
Croaghaun itself holds a secret that most tourists miss because they’re too busy swimming. The seaward cliffs on the back of that mountain are among the highest in Europe. We’re talking a 688-meter drop straight into the foam. You can’t see them from the beach. You have to hike for it. And honestly, the hike is grueling. It’s boggy, steep, and the weather turns in about six seconds. But standing on top of those cliffs makes the Cliffs of Moher look like a gentle park bench.
The Deserted Village: Not Just a Pile of Rocks
Slievemore is where things get heavy. Most people pull over, take a photo of the "Deserted Village," and keep driving toward Dugort.
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Don't do that.
Walk through it. There are about 80 ruined stone cottages stretching along the base of the mountain. This isn’t just some ancient archaeological site from a thousand years ago; people were living here until the Great Famine in the 1840s. They used it as a "booley" village—a place where they lived in the summer to graze cattle.
Walking between the roofless walls, you can feel the silence. It’s heavy. It’s a physical reminder of a population that was decimated by hunger and emigration. Local historian Edward King has written extensively about the folklore of this area, and if you talk to the older generation in Keel, they still refer to the families who once held those plots. It’s not a museum. It’s a graveyard of a lifestyle.
The Weather Reality Check
Let's be real for a second. If you visit Achill Island County Mayo expecting sunshine, you’re playing a dangerous game.
It rains. A lot.
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The wind comes off the Atlantic with a ferocity that can shake a house. But that’s actually when Achill is at its best. There is nothing quite like being inside a pub in Doogort or Keel, like Gielty’s Clew Bay Lookout, when a storm is rattling the windows. You get a bowl of seafood chowder, a pint of Guinness, and you listen to the locals talk.
The island has this specific energy when the clouds sit low over the peaks of Slievemore and Croaghaun. It feels prehistoric. You start to understand why artists like Paul Henry and Robert Henri spent years here. They weren't trying to paint a tropical paradise; they were trying to capture that specific, bruised purple light that happens right before a downpour.
Surfing, Biking, and The Great Western Greenway
If you aren't into sitting in pubs (though, why wouldn't you be?), the island is basically a giant playground. Keel Beach is the hub for surfing. The waves are consistent, though the water temperature is "invigorating," which is Irish for "freezing."
The Great Western Greenway is the big draw for cyclists. It’s a 42km trail that follows the old midlands Great Western Railway line. It starts in Westport and ends at Achill Sound.
Most people do it backward.
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They take a shuttle from Westport to Achill and cycle back so the wind is at their back. Clever. But if you really want to see the island, you need to get off the Greenway and head toward the Atlantic Drive. This is a stretch of road on the southern edge of the island that overlooks Clew Bay and the 365 islands (supposedly one for every day of the year) that dot the water.
The Banshees of Inisherin Effect
Since the movie came out, tourism has spiked. You can visit the locations where Colm (Brendan Gleeson) and Pádraic (Colin Farrell) had their falling out. The pub from the movie, J.J. Devine’s, was actually a temporary structure built at Cloughmore, but the scenery is very real.
The locals are a bit amused by the fame. They’ve known the island was cinematic for centuries. Heinrich Böll, the Nobel Prize-winning German author, lived here in the 1950s and wrote Irish Journal. He stayed in a cottage in Dugort, which is now an international residency for writers. The island has always been a magnet for people who want to escape the "real" world and lose themselves in something a bit more rugged.
Survival Tips for Your Visit
- Book your accommodation early. Especially if you want to stay in Keel or Dugort. There are no massive hotel chains here. It’s all B&Bs, self-catering cottages, and a few small hotels like the Achill Cliff House.
- Buy a physical map. Google Maps is great until you lose signal between two mountains and realize you have no idea which "boreen" (small road) leads back to the main road.
- Layers are your best friend. You will experience four seasons in any given two-hour window.
- Respect the sheep. I’m serious. They will not move. If they are sleeping in the middle of the road, you wait for them.
Beyond the Postcard
Achill isn’t just a tourist destination; it’s a living community. It’s part of the Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking region), though English is the primary language you'll hear. There’s a struggle here, too—keeping young people on the island, maintaining the fishing industry, and balancing the influx of summer visitors with the quiet of the winter months.
When you visit Achill Island County Mayo, try to look past the "top 10 things to do" lists. Go to the local butcher. Buy some Achill Sea Salt (it’s world-class). Sit on a pier and watch the currachs (traditional boats) if they’re out.
The island doesn't give up its best secrets to people who are in a rush. You have to slow down to its pace.
Actionable Steps for Your Achill Trip
- Check the Tide Tables: If you’re planning to walk the full length of Keel beach or explore the sea caves at Dugort, the tide moves fast. Don't get cut off.
- Book the Greenway Shuttle: If you’re cycling from Westport, book your return shuttle at least 48 hours in advance during the summer months.
- Hike Slievemore with a Guide: If you aren't an experienced hiker, the mist on Slievemore can be disorienting. Companies like Achill Outdoor Education Centre offer guided treks that keep you safe and give you the historical context of the Megalithic tombs scattered on the slopes.
- Visit the Aquarium: If you have kids and it’s pouring rain (which it likely will be), the Achill Experience, Aquarium & Visitor Centre in Crumpaun is a lifesaver. It’s small, but it focuses on local marine life and the island's history.
- Try the Local Lamb: The sheep on Achill eat heather and seaweed, which gives the meat a specific flavor you won't find anywhere else. Look for it on the menu at places like The Tavern or Gielty’s.