You’ve probably seen the aluminum tube. It looks more like something you’d find in a 1950s medicine cabinet or a DIY hardware kit than a modern vanity. It’s called A313. If you spend any time on "SkinTok" or deep in the corners of French pharmacy forums, you know people talk about A313 retinol cream like it’s liquid gold, or perhaps a magic eraser for wrinkles.
But here is the thing. It’s not really a cream.
If you buy this expecting a fluffy, whipped moisturizer that sinks in instantly, you are going to be very disappointed. It’s a thick, translucent, gooey ointment. It feels like Vaseline’s more sophisticated, slightly medicinal cousin. Honestly, the first time I squeezed it out of the tube, I thought I’d bought a tube of industrial sealant by mistake.
What Exactly Is A313 Retinol Cream?
Let’s get the technical stuff out of the way. A313 is the successor to the now-legendary (and discontinued) Avibon. For years, celebrities and makeup artists would hoard Avibon whenever they went to Paris. When it left the shelves, A313 stepped in to fill the void. It is a pharmaceutical-grade product regulated by French health authorities, which is why it feels so much "stronger" than the over-the-counter retinol you find at a local drugstore in the States.
The active ingredients aren't actually pure retinol. Instead, it uses a cocktail of retinyl esters—specifically retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, and retinyl palmitate.
You might hear "esters" and think they are weak. Usually, that's true. Esters are the gentlest form of Vitamin A. However, the magic of A313 isn't just the molecules; it's the base. The ointment base (polyethylene glycol) creates an occlusive seal on the skin. This prevents "transepidermal water loss" and forces the active ingredients to penetrate deeper over a longer period. It’s basically a built-in delivery system that makes a "gentle" ingredient behave like a much more potent one.
The "Itch" Factor and Dry Skin
We need to talk about the itch. If your skin is even slightly damp when you apply A313, you will know. It doesn’t just sting; it creates this bizarre, prickly, crawling sensation that makes you want to peel your face off.
Why? Because the polyethylene glycol base reacts with water.
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When water meets this ointment, it changes the penetration rate so rapidly that it shocks the nerves in your skin. I’ve seen people give up on A313 after one night because they applied it right after washing their face. Huge mistake. You have to wait. Wait 20 minutes. Wait 30 if you have to. Your skin needs to be bone-dry. Bone. Dry.
Why the French Pharmacy Obsession?
French skincare philosophy is fundamentally different from the American approach. In the US, we tend to want "more, faster, stronger." We want 2% pure retinol and we want it now. The French focus on the skin barrier. A313 fits this perfectly because while it works on fine lines and acne, it’s also incredibly protective.
It’s an "all-in-one" for people who hate 10-step routines.
- It treats hormonal breakouts.
- It softens those tiny "eleven" lines between your brows.
- It gives that "glass skin" glow because the ointment base leaves a literal sheen.
- It costs about $20 in a Parisian pharmacy (though closer to $30-$40 if you’re importing it).
Comparing A313 to Tretinoin and Drugstore Retinols
Most people want to know: is this as good as Tretinoin?
The short answer: No. Tretinoin (Retin-A) is retinoic acid. It’s the final form. Your skin doesn't have to convert it; it just starts working. A313 requires your skin to convert those esters into retinoic acid.
The long answer: It depends on your goals.
If you have severe cystic acne, go to a dermatologist and get a prescription for Tretinoin. But if you find Tretinoin too harsh—if it makes your skin flake and peel like a lizard—A313 is the middle ground. It provides better results than most "prestige" department store creams that cost $150, but it’s far more forgiving than prescription-strength stuff.
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The Mistakes Everyone Makes (And How to Avoid Them)
I’ve seen dozens of people ruin their skin barrier because they treated A313 like a regular moisturizer. Do not do that.
First, the amount. You need a pea-sized drop. That’s it. For your whole face. If you slather this on like a night mask, you’re going to wake up with a red, irritated mess. The ointment spreads incredibly well once it warms up against your skin.
Second, the "sandwich" method doesn't work the same way here. With regular retinol, people put moisturizer on, then retinol, then moisturizer. With A313, because it’s so heavy and occlusive, if you put it over a thick moisturizer, it just sits there. It can't get through. If you must buffer, use a very light, watery serum first, let it dry completely, and then apply the A313.
The Real Ingredient Breakdown
Let’s look at what’s actually inside this tube.
- PEG 400 & PEG 4000: These are the "ointment" bases. They are humectants that also act as solvents.
- Retinyl Palmitate, Propionate, Acetate: The Vitamin A derivatives.
- Polysorbate 80: An emulsifier.
Notice what’s missing? No fragrance. No parabens. No "fluff" botanical extracts that don't actually do anything. It is a functional, pharmaceutical product.
A313 for Body and "Tech Neck"
One of the best uses for A313 isn't even on the face. It’s the neck and chest. The skin on your neck is thinner and has fewer oil glands, making it prone to "crepiness." Prescription retinoids are often too strong for the neck and cause "retinol burn" almost instantly.
A313 is perfect here. Because of the greasy texture, it doesn't migrate as much as a runny lotion. Applying a tiny bit to the neck twice a week can significantly improve the look of those horizontal "tech neck" lines.
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Also, elbows. Sounds weird, I know. But if you have those dark, rough patches on your elbows or knees, the exfoliating properties of the Vitamin A combined with the heavy occlusive base work wonders.
Is It Safe for Everyone?
Basically, no.
If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, stay away. While the systemic absorption of topical Vitamin A is low, the general medical consensus is to avoid it entirely.
If you have rosacea, be extremely careful. The "warming" sensation of the PEG base can trigger a flare-up for some people. It’s always better to patch test on the side of your neck for 48 hours before committing to a full-face application.
How to Actually Buy It Without Getting Scammed
Since A313 is a French product, the "gray market" is huge. You’ll see it on Amazon, eBay, and various "French Pharmacy" boutique websites.
Be careful.
Check the packaging. The real A313 comes in an aluminum tube, not plastic. The box should have a Braille embossing. If the price seems too good to be true—like $10—it probably is. Recently, there have been reports of counterfeit tubes that are just filled with plain petroleum jelly. You want the stuff that smells slightly... chemical? It’s not a "good" smell, but it’s the "right" smell.
Actionable Steps for Your First Week
If you just got your tube in the mail, follow this protocol to avoid the dreaded "A313 itch" and maximize your results:
- The 20-Minute Rule: Wash your face with a gentle, non-foaming cleanser. Pat dry. Now, go do something else. Fold laundry. Watch a YouTube video. You need every molecule of surface moisture to evaporate.
- The Pea Size: Squeeze out a tiny amount. Warm it between your fingertips. It will turn from a white-ish paste to a clear oil-like consistency.
- Press, Don't Rub: Instead of dragging it across your skin, press it into your forehead, cheeks, and chin.
- Frequency: Start with twice a week. Sunday and Wednesday. Do this for two weeks. If your skin isn't peeling or angry, move to every other night.
- Morning Defense: You must wear sunscreen the next day. Retinyl esters make your skin more photosensitive. If you use A313 at night and skip SPF in the morning, you are actually fast-tracking sun damage and wrinkles.
- Skip the Actives: On the nights you use A313, do not use Vitamin C, Glycolic acid, or Salicylic acid. Keep it simple.
A313 isn't a luxury experience. It's not "spa-like." It's a sticky, weird-smelling ointment that comes in a metal tube that eventually cracks at the sides. But if you can get past the texture and the learning curve of the application, it provides a clarity and smoothness to the skin that very few other products can match at this price point. It’s a cult favorite for a reason: it simply works.