If you close your eyes and think about hair in 1985, you probably see a cloud of hairspray. It’s usually a dry, crunchy mess that looks like it might catch fire if it gets too close to a lightbulb. But honestly, that’s a caricature. People forget that 80s hairstyles for curly hair weren't just about destroying your cuticle with chemicals; they were about a fundamental shift in how we viewed texture. For the first time in decades, having "frizzy" or "difficult" hair wasn't something to hide under a flat iron. It was a superpower.
Big hair. That was the mandate.
But here is the thing: the 80s didn't just happen. They were a reaction to the sleek, feathered, Farrah Fawcett 70s. When the clock struck midnight on December 31, 1979, the world decided it was done with smooth transitions. It wanted chaos. It wanted height. If you had natural curls, you were suddenly the envy of everyone who was spending four hours at the salon getting a "cold wave" perm just to mimic what grew out of your head for free.
The Perm Reality Check
We have to talk about the perm because it defined the architecture of the era. Even if you had natural curls, stylists back then would often suggest a "spot perm" to even out the pattern. It sounds insane now. Why put chemicals on top of natural texture? Because 80s volume wasn't about the soft, hydrated "clumps" we see on TikTok today. It was about expansion.
The goal was to occupy as much physical space as possible. This is where the "scrunching" technique was born. You’ve probably seen your mom or an aunt tilting her head upside down, vigorously squeezing a handful of Dippity-do gel into her hair. It worked. It created a structural integrity that allowed curls to defy gravity.
But there was a dark side. The 80s were brutal on hair health. Between the high-alcohol mousses and the literal "freezing" sprays (shoutout to Shiseido and Sebastian Re-Shaper), curls were often stripped of their natural oils. If you look at high-definition photos of celebrities from 1987, you’ll notice a distinct lack of shine. That wasn't an accident. It was the "matte" look of the decade. Shine was for the disco era; the 80s wanted grit.
Why 80s Hairstyles for Curly Hair Still Matter
You see it everywhere now. The "Wolf Cut." The "Modern Mullet." These aren't new. They are just 1984 with better conditioner.
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The Curly Shag and the Rise of the Layer
Before the 80s, curly hair was often cut into a "pyramid." You know the look—flat on top, wide at the bottom. It’s the bane of every curly girl's existence. Then came stylists like Geri Cusenza (co-founder of Sebastian Professional), who started playing with extreme internal layering.
The curly shag changed everything. By cutting short layers into the crown, the weight was lifted. Suddenly, the curls on top could actually bounce. They could stand up. This created that iconic "heart-shaped" silhouette that defined icons like Whitney Houston during her "How Will I Know" era. Her hair wasn't just big; it was engineered. It had a shorter top and sides that flowed into a longer back, providing a frame for the face that felt electric and alive.
The Scrunched Aesthetic vs. The Diffuser
Most people think the blow dryer attachment that looks like a hand—the diffuser—is a modern invention. Nope. It gained massive traction in the mid-80s. Before that, if you had curly hair, you either air-dried (which took forever) or used a standard nozzle that turned your head into a dandelion.
The diffuser allowed for 80s hairstyles for curly hair to reach their final form. By dispersing the air, it dried the curl without breaking the pattern. Well, mostly. Most people still brushed their curls out once they were dry to get that extra "oomph." It’s a cardinal sin in the Curly Girl Method today, but back then, the "brushed-out curl" was a high-fashion statement.
The Celebs Who Defined the Texture
Look at Lisa Bonet. Honestly, her hair in the mid-to-late 80s was a masterclass in natural texture. She embraced the "undone" look long before it was a Pinterest board. She wore her curls with a mix of braids and natural frizz that felt rebellious. It wasn't the "polished" perm of a suburban news anchor. It was raw.
Then you have Prince. If we are talking about curly hair, Prince is the syllabus. His hair during the Purple Rain era was a perfectly manicured curly coif. It required incredible maintenance—likely a combination of a texturizer and very specific pomades to keep the curls tight but defined. It was gender-fluid, it was bold, and it proved that curly hair could be incredibly sharp and deliberate.
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Then, of course, there’s Madonna. Her "Lucky Star" hair was basically a DIY manual for a generation. It was bleached, it was teased, and it was held together by sheer willpower and a lot of lace ribbons. It taught us that curls didn't have to be "perfect" to be cool. Messy was a choice.
Technical Specs: How They Built Those Clouds
If you wanted the height, you had to use a "pick." Not a comb. A pick.
You’d slide the pick into the roots—never all the way through the ends, unless you wanted a literal afro—and tug upward. Then, you’d blast the root with hairspray. This created a "base" of frizz that acted like a shelf for the rest of the curls to sit on. It’s a technique called back-combing or teasing, but for curly hair, it was more of a "root lift" maneuver.
The products were also... intense.
- Mousse: This was the holy grail. It gave the "wet look" that stayed crunchy all day.
- Hair Spray: Not the fine mist stuff we have now. We’re talking about "aerosol glue."
- Gels: Usually bright blue or green. They were heavy, sticky, and could withstand a Category 3 hurricane.
The Misconception of the "Mullet"
Everyone loves to joke about the mullet. But for people with curly hair, the "curly mullet" was actually a very practical solution to a common problem: tangles. By keeping the sides short or even shaved (the "undercut" made a huge appearance in the late 80s alternative scene), you reduced the bulk around the ears.
The "business in the front, party in the back" mantra allowed for a controlled fringe. Having curly bangs—often called "poodle bangs"—was a massive trend. They were usually curled with a small-barrel iron to make them extra tight and then teased until they hovered an inch off the forehead. It sounds ridiculous, but in the context of 1987 fashion, it balanced out the massive shoulder pads. It was all about proportions.
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Bringing the 80s Into 2026 (Without the Damage)
If you want to rock an 80s-inspired look today, you don't need to ruin your hair. We have technology now. We have "plex" treatments and sulfate-free cleansers.
The modern version of 80s hairstyles for curly hair is often called the "Disco Curl" or the "Reconstructed Shag." The key is volume at the root and movement at the ends. Instead of using high-alcohol hairspray, we use volumizing powders and dry texture sprays. These give you that "big hair" lift without the "shatters if you touch it" crunch.
- Start with a heavy-duty leave-in. The 80s look was big, but it doesn't have to be thirsty. Use a cream to define the curls first.
- Flip and dry. Using a diffuser, dry your hair entirely upside down. This is the only way to get the 80s-level lift at the crown.
- The Root Tease. Use a wide-tooth pick at the roots once the hair is 100% dry. Shake it out.
- Finish with a flexible hold spray. You want it to move when you walk, unlike the statuesque styles of 1989.
The Cultural Impact
We shouldn't dismiss these styles as just "tacky." For many, the 80s were the first time they felt they didn't have to fight their natural hair every single morning. While the "perm" was a way for straight-haired people to get curls, it also normalized texture in a way that hadn't happened since the 1940s.
It was a decade of excess, sure. But it was also a decade of expression. Whether it was Salt-N-Pepa’s asymmetrical cuts or Julia Roberts’ iconic mane in Pretty Woman, curly hair was the undisputed star of the show. It was a visual representation of the "more is more" philosophy.
Actionable Steps for Modern Curls
If you're looking to reclaim that 1980s volume without the 1980s breakage, here is exactly how to handle it:
- Audit your layers. Ask your stylist for "internal layers" or "shalam" layers. This removes weight from the middle of the hair shaft, allowing the curl to spring upward. If your hair is all one length, you will never get the 80s silhouette.
- Ditch the heavy oils. If you want volume, you can't weigh the hair down with heavy Jamaican Black Castor Oil or thick butters. Switch to lightweight mousses or "liquid" gels.
- The "Pineapple" Method. To keep that volume overnight, tie your hair in a very high, loose ponytail at the very top of your head. This protects the curls and keeps the roots lifted while you sleep.
- Cold Air Set. When you're done diffusing, hit your hair with the "cool shot" button. This helps set the volume you just created so it doesn't fall flat the moment you step outside.
The 80s weren't just about hair. They were about taking up space. For anyone with curly hair, that's a lesson worth remembering. You don't need to shrink your hair to fit in. Sometimes, you just need a bigger pick and a little more confidence. Or maybe just a really good diffuser.