Walk past the intersection of Dearborn and Washington in the heart of Chicago’s Loop and you’ll see it. It’s huge. 50 West Washington Street isn't just an address; it is a massive, rusting monument to 1960s civic ambition. Most people call it the Daley Center. Some call it the "rusty building." Others just see it as the place where they have to show up for jury duty or a traffic ticket.
Honestly? It's kind of intimidating.
The building stands 648 feet tall, which made it the tallest building in Chicago when it opened back in 1965. But height isn't the story here. The story is the steel. Specifically, Cor-Ten steel. This stuff was designed to rust. It forms a protective oxide coating that turns a deep, dark cinnamon brown over time. It’s supposed to look like that. People thought it was a mistake at first. They waited for the painters to show up. They never did.
Why 50 West Washington Street Still Matters to Chicago Architecture
You’ve got to understand the pedigree here. We are talking about a collaboration between C.F. Murphy Associates, Skidmore, Owings & Merrill (SOM), and Loebl, Schlossman & Bennett. That’s a "who's who" of mid-century modernism. Jacques Brownson, the lead designer from C.F. Murphy, was a student of Mies van der Rohe, and you can tell. It’s all about the "long span."
Look at the windows. They are massive. Because the building uses a steel-frame structure with only 12 huge columns, the interior spaces are incredibly flexible. Each bay is 87 feet wide. That is nearly unheard of for a skyscraper. It allowed for courtroom layouts that didn't have a single pillar blocking the judge's view of the defendant or the jury’s view of the evidence. It was a functional revolution.
But let’s talk about the plaza. The Richard J. Daley Plaza is basically Chicago’s front porch. It’s where the Christkindlmarket happens every winter. It’s where people protest, celebrate, and eat lunch. And right in the middle sits the Picasso.
The Untitled Picasso (Don't Call it a Dog)
In 1967, when the sculpture was unveiled, Chicago went nuts. Not necessarily in a good way. It’s a 50-foot tall, 162-ton hunk of the same Cor-Ten steel used on the building. Picasso never explained what it was. Is it a bird? A woman? His Afghan Hound, Kabul? Mayor Richard J. Daley, the building's namesake, famously didn't "get" it either, but he knew it put Chicago on the cultural map.
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He was right.
Today, kids slide down the base of the Picasso like it’s a playground. It’s tactile. It’s dirty. It’s quintessentially Chicago. You won't find that kind of interaction at many other world-class art installations.
The Boring (But Critical) Legal Engine Inside
If you're heading to 50 West Washington Street, you're likely not there for the architecture. You're there because the Cook County Circuit Court is one of the largest unified court systems in the world.
The building houses over 120 courtrooms. It is a beehive.
- Traffic Court: Located in the lower levels. It’s a rite of passage for many locals.
- Law Library: On the 29th floor. It’s one of the best public legal resources in the country. The view from up there is actually better than some paid observation decks.
- Government Offices: Everything from the Clerk of the Circuit Court to the Marriage Court. Yes, people get married here every day in a tiny room that feels surprisingly romantic despite the fluorescent lighting.
One thing people often miss is the sheer volume of paper that used to move through this place. While everything is going digital now, the Daley Center was designed with complex systems of pneumatic tubes and elevators just to handle the legal filings of millions of people.
Common Misconceptions and Surprising Details
People think the building is falling apart because of the rust. I've heard tourists say it looks "half-finished." Again, that’s the Cor-Ten. It actually gets stronger as it weathers. If you scraped that rust off, you’d be damaging the structural integrity.
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Another weird fact? The "eternal flame" in the plaza. It’s a memorial to the fallen soldiers of various wars, and it actually stays lit. In a city where the wind can literally knock you over, keeping that flame alive is a minor engineering miracle.
Then there's the "Blues Brothers" connection. If you've seen the 1980 film, you know 50 West Washington Street. The climactic car chase ends with the Bluesmobile crashing through the glass walls of the lobby. They actually filmed it there. The city let them drive a car through the front of their premier legal building. That would never happen today. Security is way too tight.
Speaking of security, if you’re visiting, leave the pocketknife at home. The lines for the metal detectors can wrap around the lobby during the morning rush (around 9:00 AM).
How to Navigate the Building Like a Local
If you have a court date or an appointment at 50 West Washington Street, don't just show up five minutes early. You’ll be late.
The elevators are grouped by floors. If you jump on the first one you see, you might find yourself stuck on an express run to the 20th floor when you needed the 4th. Look at the signs above the banks. They are clearly marked, but in the stress of a legal appointment, people miss them constantly.
Also, the basement is a maze. It connects to the "Pedway," Chicago’s underground tunnel system. You can actually walk from the Daley Center all the way to Macy’s or the Hyatt Regency without ever stepping outside into the snow. It’s a lifesaver in February.
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Places to Eat Nearby
The Daley Center doesn't have a food court. It has a tiny snack shop, but you don't want to eat there. Walk across the street to Block 37 for an actual meal. Or, if you want the "old school" experience, head a few blocks over to Miller’s Pub on Wabash.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
If you’re planning to visit 50 West Washington Street, whether for a tour or a summons, keep these specific points in mind:
- Check the Daily Call: If you are there for court, look for the digital monitors in the lobby. They list every case and room number. Don't wander.
- Photo Ops: You can take photos in the plaza and the lobby, but once you go through security, cameras and phones are strictly regulated near courtrooms. Don't be the person who gets their phone confiscated by a Sheriff's deputy.
- The 29th Floor Hack: Even if you aren't a lawyer, the Law Library is open to the public. It is the quietest place in the Loop. If you need to kill two hours between court sessions, go there. The views of the surrounding skyscrapers are incredible.
- Weather Preparedness: The plaza is a wind tunnel. Even on a mild day, the way the wind whips around the Daley Center and the County Building across the street is brutal. Hold onto your hat.
- Official Information: Always verify your room number on the Cook County Clerk of the Circuit Court website before you arrive. Room assignments change more often than you’d think.
The Daley Center is a polarizing piece of architecture, but it’s an honest one. It doesn't hide what it is. It’s a massive, rusting, busy machine that keeps the city's legal gears turning. Whether you love the "High Modernist" look or think it’s an eyesore, you can't deny it defines the Chicago skyline. Next time you're in the Loop, stand at the base of the Picasso, look up at those giant steel beams, and remember that you’re looking at a piece of history that was designed to age, just like the rest of us.
Make sure to arrive at least 30 minutes before any scheduled hearing to clear the security checkpoints. If you're coming for the Christkindlmarket in the winter, the lines for the market itself can extend around the block, so try to visit on a Tuesday or Wednesday afternoon to avoid the weekend crush. For researchers, the archives in the lower levels contain records dating back decades, but you’ll need to file a specific request with the Clerk’s office to access anything not stored on the public terminals.
Don't forget to check out the plaque near the eternal flame for a quick history lesson on the site's significance before the building was even erected. It’s a lot of ground to cover, but 50 West Washington Street is more than just a courthouse; it's the anchor of downtown Chicago.