If you spent any part of your childhood in the early nineties, you probably have a box of junk wax tucked away in a garage or a crawl space. And inside that box, there is almost certainly a 1990 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr. card. It’s the one with that iconic white border, the crisp photography, and the hologram on the back that we all thought was basically a high-tech anti-counterfeiting miracle.
But here’s the thing. Most people look at this card and see one of two things: a "worthless" piece of overproduced cardboard or a "rare error card" that’s going to pay for their retirement.
Honestly? Both of those groups are kinda wrong.
While the 1989 Upper Deck rookie card is the undisputed king of the hobby, the 1990 follow-up has its own weird, fascinating story. It’s a card that captures "The Kid" right at the moment he was transforming from a hyped prospect into a global superstar.
The Reality of the 1990 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr. Value
Let’s get the "get rich quick" dreams out of the way first. You’ve probably seen listings on eBay or Etsy for $1,500 or even $5,000 for a 1990 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr. card. They usually scream about "RARE ERRORS" or "SPELLING MISTAKES."
Don't buy the hype.
Back in 1990, Upper Deck was printing cards like they were the Federal Reserve. There are millions of these out there. If you have a raw, ungraded copy sitting in a shoebox, it’s basically a $2 card. Maybe $5 if it’s exceptionally clean.
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The market for this card is almost entirely driven by professional grading. As of early 2026, here is what the actual landscape looks like for card #156:
- PSA 10 (Gem Mint): These usually sell for between $85 and $110. It fluctuates based on how many people are feeling nostalgic that week.
- PSA 9 (Mint): You’re looking at $15 to $25.
- Raw / Ungraded: Roughly the price of a decent cup of coffee.
So, why the huge gap? Because Upper Deck in 1990 had some serious quality control issues. Getting a "10" is harder than it looks. Centering was often wonky, and those white borders are absolute magnets for tiny "chipping" or corner wear that the naked eye misses but a 10x loupe catches instantly.
That Famous Spelling Error
You’ll hear a lot about the "simultaniously" error. On the back of some #156 cards, the word "simultaneously" is misspelled. People try to market this as a "one-of-a-kind" rarity.
It’s not.
The error was corrected later in the print run, but both versions were printed in such massive quantities that the "error" doesn't actually command a massive premium. It’s a cool conversation piece, sure. But it’s not a winning lottery ticket.
The "Other" Griffey: The Team Checklist #24
A lot of collectors forget that there isn't just one 1990 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr. in the set. Junior also appears on the Mariners Team Checklist card, which is #24.
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This card is actually sleeper-cool. It features a great shot of him in the dugout or on the field, and because it’s a "checklist," many kids in 1990 actually used them—marking them up with pens or pencils to keep track of their sets.
Finding a PSA 10 of the #24 checklist is actually becoming a fun challenge for Griffey "super-collectors." It’s a low-stakes way to build a high-grade collection without spending thousands of dollars.
Why This Card Still Matters in 2026
If the money isn't huge, why are we still talking about it?
Because the 1990 season was the year Ken Griffey Jr. became the face of baseball. He hit .300 for the first time. He won his first Gold Glove. He and his dad, Ken Griffey Sr., made history by playing in the same outfield.
When you hold a 1990 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr., you're holding a piece of that specific magic.
Upper Deck changed the game. Before them, cards were printed on grainy, grey cardboard (looking at you, Topps and Donruss). Upper Deck used "premium" white cardstock. They had the hologram. They had photography that actually looked like it belonged in a magazine.
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What to Look For If You’re Buying (or Digging Through Your Attic)
If you want a copy that actually has value, you need to be picky. Really picky. Look for:
- Centering: Look at the white borders. Is the photo shifted to the left or right? If it’s even a little bit off, it won't get a high grade.
- The Hologram: On the back, the diamond-shaped hologram should be centered and shouldn't have any "flaking" or scratches.
- The "Pink" Tint: Some 1990 Upper Deck cards have a slight printing tint issue. Collectors prefer the ones with crisp, clean white backgrounds.
Expert Insight: The "Junk Wax" Renaissance
We’re currently seeing a bit of a "junk wax" renaissance. People who were 10 years old in 1990 now have adult money. They don't necessarily want a 1952 Mickey Mantle; they want the cards they used to trade at recess.
This has kept the 1990 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr. relevant. It's the "affordable" alternative to his 1989 rookie card. While a PSA 10 1989 Upper Deck rookie might set you back $2,500 to $3,000, you can get the 1990 version for $100.
It’s the entry drug for modern vintage collecting.
Your Next Steps
If you’ve got a stack of these in a box, don't just throw them on eBay for $1,000 and hope for a sucker. That’s a waste of time. Instead:
- Audit your corners. Take a bright light and a magnifying glass. If the corners aren't needle-sharp, keep it as a nostalgic souvenir.
- Check the #156 back. See if you have the "simultaniously" error just for fun. It’s a great piece of hobby history.
- Consider "Bulk" Grading. If you find 5 or 10 copies that look absolutely perfect (and I mean perfect), it might be worth sending them to PSA or SGC. A PSA 10 will always have a market.
- Look for the #24 Checklist. Most people ignore it, but a Gem Mint copy is a great addition to any Mariners or Griffey-specific collection.
The 1990 Upper Deck Ken Griffey Jr. isn't going to buy you a beach house, but it’s a beautiful, high-quality remnant of the most exciting era in baseball history. Sometimes, the "cool factor" is worth more than the price tag anyway.
Actionable Insight: If you're looking to buy, skip the "raw" listings on auction sites where the photos are blurry. Only buy graded PSA 9s or 10s if you care about long-term value, or look for "factory sets" that have been sealed since 1990 to find the best possible condition.