You’re digging through an old coat pocket or maybe flipping through a birthday card from three decades ago, and there it is. A crisp, slightly smaller-looking twenty. It feels different. The portrait of Andrew Jackson isn't as huge as the one on the bills in your wallet today. It’s a Series 1988 or 1988A note. Your first instinct is probably to wonder if you can finally quit your job.
Honestly? Probably not. But it’s complicated.
When people ask about the 1988 20 dollar bill worth, they usually expect a simple "yes" or "no" regarding its value. The reality of paper money collecting—or notaphily, if you want to be fancy about it—is that most of these bills are just worth twenty bucks. You could go buy a mediocre pizza with it right now. However, there are very specific "lottery ticket" versions of this bill that collectors obsess over.
What makes the 1988 series different?
The late eighties were a transitional time for the Bureau of Engraving and Printing (BEP). The 1988 and 1988A series were some of the last to feature the "small head" design before the U.S. started getting serious about anti-counterfeiting tech in the mid-90s.
Look at the portrait. It’s framed in an oval. There’s no color-shifting ink. No giant security thread you can see through a backlight. It’s old-school. Because these haven't been printed in over thirty years, they are becoming "scarce" in the eyes of the general public, but scarcity doesn't always equal value.
Condition is everything. A 1988 twenty that has been folded into a tiny square or shoved into a vending machine a hundred times is technically worth $20. Why? Because millions were printed. According to official BEP records, billions of these notes moved through the economy. Unless yours looks like it was printed yesterday, a coin shop owner will probably just tell you to go spend it.
The 1988 vs. 1988A distinction
You'll notice a little letter "A" next to the year on some bills. This isn't a typo. It indicates a change in the Treasurer or the Secretary of the Treasury. For the 1988 series, the signatures belong to Katherine D. Ortega and Nicholas F. Brady. When Mary Ellen Withrow or Lloyd Bentsen took over later, the series changed.
Collector interest usually spikes for the 1988A series from specific districts. For example, notes from the Richmond (E) or Minneapolis (I) districts sometimes carry a tiny premium if they are in "Choice Uncirculated" condition. We’re talking $30 to $45. Not a fortune, but a nice 50% profit for just holding onto a piece of paper.
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When the 1988 20 dollar bill worth actually skyrockets
Errors. This is where the real money is.
Paper money is printed in three stages. First, the back. Then, the front. Finally, the "third printing" which adds the serial numbers and the green Treasury seal. If something goes wrong during that third pass, you might be holding a bill worth $500 or even $2,000.
I once saw a 1988A twenty where the green seal was printed directly over Jackson's face because the paper shifted. It looked like he had a bad tattoo. That bill sold for a staggering amount compared to its face value.
Look for these specific anomalies:
- Gutter Folds: This happens when the paper creases before the ink hits it. When you pull the fold apart, there’s a white streak where no ink exists.
- Double Denominations: These are the holy grail. Imagine a 1988 $20 bill that has a $10 bill design printed on the back. It sounds impossible, but it happens. These are rare enough to fetch five figures at heritage auctions.
- Ink Smears: If the press was over-inked, you’ll see blurry, dark patches. Collectors love this "messy" look.
- Cutting Errors: If your bill is lopsided and shows part of the next bill from the sheet, it’s worth significantly more than twenty dollars.
The "Fancy" Serial Number Club
Sometimes the value isn't in the printing error, but in the numbers themselves. Flip the bill over—well, keep it on the front, actually—and look at the eight-digit serial number.
If you see "00000001," congratulations, you can probably buy a used car. Low serial numbers are highly coveted. Similarly, "Radars" (numbers that read the same forward and backward, like 12344321) or "Solid" serial numbers (all 8s) turn a boring 1988 twenty into a high-value asset. Even "Ladders" (12345678) have a dedicated market on eBay and at specialized shows.
The harsh truth about "Star Notes"
You might see a little star at the end of the serial number. This means the original bill was damaged during printing and the BEP replaced it with a "Star Note" to keep the count accurate.
In many series, stars are rare. For the 1988 and 1988A 20 dollar bills, they are certainly more valuable than standard notes, but they aren't always "retire early" rare. A crisp, uncirculated 1988 Star Note might get you $60 to $100. If it’s been in a wallet? Maybe $25. It’s cool, but it won't pay the mortgage.
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How to accurately grade your bill at home
You don't need a microscope, but a magnifying glass helps. Collectors use a 70-point scale established by the Sheldon Scale.
- Crisp Uncirculated (CU 60-70): No folds. No smudges. Sharp corners. The paper still "snaps" when you flick it.
- About Uncirculated (AU 50-58): Maybe one slight fold in the center, but otherwise perfect.
- Very Fine (VF 20-35): It’s been used. It has some creases, maybe a little dirt, but no tears.
- Good (G 4-6): This bill has seen things. It’s limp, dirty, and maybe has a small tear.
If your 1988 bill is in "Good" or "Very Fine" condition, its value is almost certainly $20. There is simply too much supply of circulated 1988 notes for them to be worth a premium. People saved them by the thousands back then, thinking they'd be worth a fortune today. They were mostly wrong.
Where to sell if you actually have a winner
Don't go to a pawn shop. Just don't. They will offer you $22 for a bill worth $100 because they need to turn a profit and often don't specialize in currency.
If you think you have a high-grade or error note, your first stop should be a reputable dealer who belongs to the Professional Currency Dealers Association (PCDA). Alternatively, check out "Sold" listings on eBay—not the "Asking" price. Anyone can ask $5,000 for a regular 1988 twenty; that doesn't mean it sells. Look for the green numbers in the search results to see what people are actually paying.
For truly high-end notes, companies like PCGS Banknote or PMG (Paper Money Guaranty) are the gold standard. They will "slab" your bill in a plastic holder and give it an official grade. This costs money, usually around $30-$50 plus shipping, so only do this if you’re confident the bill is worth at least $150.
The psychological appeal of the 1988 series
There’s something nostalgic about the 1988 series. It represents the last gasp of the "old" American money style. Before the giant heads, before the "monopoly money" colors, and before the complex watermarks. For many Gen X and Boomer collectors, it’s a reminder of a specific era of commerce.
That nostalgia drives a small "floor" for the value. Even if a bill isn't a rare error, a collector might pay $25 just to have a clean example of the year they graduated high school or got married.
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Actionable steps for your 1988 twenty
Stop. Don't put it in a vending machine just yet.
First, examine the serial number for patterns. Is it a radar? Is it a low number? If yes, put it in a plastic sleeve immediately. Skin oils destroy paper value over time.
Second, check for the star. If there's a star, it's worth a small premium regardless of condition.
Third, look for errors. Look at the seals. Are they centered? Is the ink bleeding?
If it’s just a normal, circulated bill with no special features, feel free to spend it or keep it as a memento. The inflation since 1988 means that $20 then had the purchasing power of about $55 today. In that sense, holding onto a standard 1988 bill has actually lost you money in terms of "real" value.
Keep your eyes peeled for those "web notes" too. Though more common in $1 bills from this era, some experimental printing methods were being tested. While 1988 $20 web notes aren't the standard, the transition period was full of oddities.
Check your local library for the "Standard Guide to Small-Size U.S. Paper Money." It is the bible for this stuff. It’ll give you the exact print runs for every district, helping you figure out if your specific bill is one of five million or one of fifty million. Knowledge is the difference between getting ripped off and making a great sale.
Ultimately, the 1988 20 dollar bill is a piece of history you can hold in your hand. Most are just currency, but the outliers are what make the hunt worth it.