Walk down Barrow Street on a Tuesday evening and you’ll likely see a line of couples huddled in expensive coats, waiting for a table. They are looking for romance. They usually find it at One if by Land, Two if by Sea, the restaurant that has called 17 Barrow St home since 1970.
But most people eating their beef Wellington inside don't realize the ground beneath them has a darker, much weirder history.
17 Barrow St New York is not just a fancy restaurant. It is a time capsule of New York’s transition from a rural outpost to a den of iniquity, and finally, to a high-end historic district.
The Ghost of a Vice President
The building started as a carriage house.
In the 1790s, Aaron Burr—yes, the man who shot Alexander Hamilton—owned this place. He kept his horses and coaches here. It was part of his massive Richmond Hill estate. Honestly, Burr is basically the reason this spot has its "most haunted" reputation. People claim he never really left.
Staff members have reported some wild stuff over the decades. Plates flying off tables. Chairs being pulled out by "nobody." There’s even a story about a woman in black who descends the stairs. Some say it's Burr's daughter, Theodosia, who disappeared at sea. Others think it’s just the overactive imagination of a server who’s worked a double shift.
The Secret Tunnel to the River
One of the most legit pieces of history here is the barrel-vaulted tunnel.
It runs from the building toward Hudson Street. Back then, Hudson Street was the shoreline. Why build a tunnel?
- Smuggling booze or contraband.
- A secret escape route for Burr.
- The Underground Railroad.
The third option is the one most historians lean into. Fugitive slaves likely used this tunnel as a stop on the way to freedom in Canada. It’s a heavy thought to have while you’re sipping a $20 cocktail.
From Firemen to "Houses of Ill-Repute"
By the late 1800s, the neighborhood was changing. The hogs that used to patrol the streets for garbage were banned (thanks, cholera). The city eventually sold the carriage house in the 1890s.
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The new owner didn't want a stable. He wanted a brothel.
It was a "discreet" house of ill-repute, tucked away from the more chaotic Tenderloin district. It functioned this way for a while before the 20th century turned it into a silent movie house around 1910. The building has been a bar, a restaurant, a bar again, and now the landmark it is today.
The Architecture You’re Probably Missing
The building is a two-story low-rise. It’s got that classic West Village brick aesthetic, but there are details people walk right past.
- The Hitching Post: There is an original iron hitching post inside the bar area. It’s a literal remnant from the horse-and-carriage days.
- The Bricks: The stone and brickwork match the 18th-century military construction of the era.
- The Gate: Recently, there were permits filed (as late as 2023) to update the ironwork out front to match the historic landmarked neighborhood.
The lot itself is about 2,025 square feet. In the West Village, that’s basically a kingdom.
What to Actually Do There
If you’re heading to 17 Barrow St, don't just go for the food. Go for the vibe.
First, ask the bartender about the coins. When the current owners restored the place in the 70s, they found old coins, handmade horseshoes, and antique bottles from the early 1800s.
Second, check out the piano. The live music is a staple of the experience. It’s one of the few places left in Manhattan that feels like "Old New York" without being a total theme park.
Third, look at the stairs. Even if you don't believe in ghosts, the architecture of that staircase is stunning. It’s where the "woman in black" is most frequently spotted.
Practical Tips for Visiting
- Dress Code: They say "business casual," but honestly, most people dress up. Don't be the person in cargo shorts.
- Reservations: Essential. This place stays booked out weeks in advance for weekends.
- The Tunnel: You can't usually go in it (for safety reasons), but you can ask the staff to point out where the entrance was.
17 Barrow St is more than a 10014 zip code. It’s a survivor. From vice presidents to vice dens, it’s seen the worst and best of New York City.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
If you want to experience the history firsthand, book a table near the bar rather than the main dining room. This gives you the best view of the original 18th-century hitching post and the most direct access to the staff who know the "real" ghost stories. Check the Landmarks Preservation Commission (LPC) archives if you want to see the original 1910 floor plans before your visit.